Similar to our overnight train from Baku to Tbilisi experience, we also took another overnight train to cross yet another neighboring country of Georgia. In this post, I will share our experience as we took the overnight night train from Tbilisi to Yerevan. Not only that, you will find below our experience at the border as we availed the visa on arrival in Armenia as UAE residents. Shall we?
Buying Tickets for the Overnight Train from Tbilisi to Yerevan
As seamless as our experience with the Azerbaijan Railways website, this time, it was a different situation. There are different blogs online advising us to book the tickets from the Armenian South Caucasus Railway website, however, I can't seem to find 'Yerevan' as the destination. I followed all the instructions on how to navigate it, but I really canβt find it. We ended up buying the tickets directly from the ticketing counters upon our arrival at Tbilisi Central Railway Station.
I heard that during the summer season, the tickets usually sell out fast. And when we reached the ticketing counter, true enough there were limited seats left. The only options given to us were:
- 2 seats/beds from the 2nd class but located in two different cabins and both of them are upper decks
- Or seats/beds from the 3rd class with one lower deck and one upper deck in the same carriage.
Since both of us are ladies, we do not want to stay in two different cabins and hence we chose the third-class seats called platskart (ΠΏΠ»Π°ΡΠΊΠ°ΡΡ).
Train Station in Tbilisi: Tbilisi Central Railway Station
Location
If you take the train from Baku (Azerbaijan), it is the same station where you arrived.
But if not and you are taking the Tbilisi metro, you have to get off at Station Square. Take the Tbilisi Central Exit and walk to your left side. You will spot the train station building with lots of parked marshrutkas in front of it.
Facilities
Inside the building, is a combination of a train station and a shopping center with a food court on the upper floor. Of course, you will also find the ticketing counter, a toilet (prepare your coins), a money exchange, and some coffee kiosks on the ground floor. Some of these services are not available for 24 hours though and there's no proper restaurant apart from the food court on the upper floor.
Platform
Similar to other train stations, the platform is also located outside the building. To access it, you will have to go down by using the stairs. There is a lift/elevator in the building but it was not working during our visit (August 2019).
In case it's still not working, prepare to drag your luggage accordingly.
On the platform, there were limited stone benches so if you must wait for the train, do it inside the building near the ticketing counter.
The Overnight Train from Tbilisi to Yerevan Experience
Based on our experience back in 2019, the train we took (Train 201) looked quite old yet still working properly. However, according to Seat 61, Train 201 was completely re-equipped in 2021 with smart modern air-conditioned carriages built in Russia.
Originally, the train comes from Batumi then stops in Tbilisi, and continues to Yerevan hence the signage.
As mentioned above, we bought our tickets late and we only managed to get seats in the third class which is the open-plan sleepers called Platskartny or Platskart. This was our first ever Platskart experience and truth be told, we were culture-shocked inside out.
We learned that since this is an open-plan setup, of course, there's no privacy here. Apart from that, expect lots of small talk from the friendly locals who are curious about you and your journey.
Similar to the train from Baku, there's no Wi-Fi and food cart on board but there's a toilet and thatβs about it. So remember to buy your food and drinks before boarding the train.
Our Roommates - the whole community!
This is no Trans-Siberian journey but it was an experience of a lifetime. As first-timers on a Platskart, we didn't know what was expecting us inside the carriage. It was not part of our research before our trip since it wasn't part of the plan anyway. As we boarded the train, we saw everyone coming from their vacation in their most comfortable clothes ever. It looked like they were at home and that everyone knew everyone. Of course, the liveliness and friendliness of the passengers were also felt.
Apart from my friend and I, there were another two Western foreigners and they walked past us and headed to the far end of the carriage. Similar to us, all eyes were on them because were 'foreigners'. And because of that, the curious locals began their small talks by asking us if we were from China, as usual. After telling them that we were from the Philippines, their amusement became wild and we were given warm smiles and welcome. We couldn't speak the local language (and I started learning Russian a little late) so our small talk reached only so far.
Despite the language barrier, they were all friendly and helpful. Someone helped us how to set up the upper deck. Another gentleman offered us an English translation when the train attendant was trying to explain that he ran out of bed sheets and pillowcases for us. Overall, it was a chaotic fun experience and I'd probably book more of this in the future. However, to this day, my friend is still a little shocked by our Platskart experience and I'm not sure she will join me again on another trip involving a Platskart. Hehe.
The Border Crossing - Exiting Georgia and Entering Yerevan:
Georgian Exit Stamp
Before the train even started to move, the immigration officers already came up and asked for our passports. Before we knew it, we already got our exit stamps while we were still in Tbilisi.
Arrival at the Border Check Point - Sadakhlo, Georgia
As a Philippine Passport holder with UAE Residency, we were eligible to get a visa on arrival back in 2019. As of 2024, it seems that it is now recommended to apply for an E-Visa.
Moving on, the train approached the border at around 1 AM and the train attendant woke us up by saying, 'Visa, Visa'. While still sleepy, we reached for our passports, travel documents (itinerary, tickets, hotel booking, insurance), and money to pay for the visa.
We got off the train and stood outside the border post (Sadakhlo Border Checkpoint - technically on the Georgian side), waiting to be called. A few gentlemen were sitting on the bench and dogs were barking in the middle of the night. I thought this couldn't be more than the perfect setting for a horror movie. I guess I watched too many films.
Before my thoughts ran wild, we were finally called inside. There was a group of Chinese tourists and an Indian tourist before us. Back then, the Indian tourist was trying to pay for his visa with Georgian Lari and it wasn't accepted. I couldn't remember how he paid for his visa, so make sure you have US dollars with you. And then it's our turn.
Armenian Tourist Visa on Arrival
During our turn, the immigration officer took our passports and checked our UAE Residence Visas. He asked us the duration of our stay and then scanned our passports. We paid for our visas and voila, within 5 minutes, our tourist visas were already stamped on our passports.
We moved to another room after and we received our Armenian entry stamp. Look at the stamp with a train icon!
We went back to the train relaxed as ever since there was one thing left to do, wait to arrive in Yerevan and finally enjoy the last leg of the trip! Yahoo!
There you go. If you're planning to take the overnight train from Tbilisi to Yerevan like us, I'd only say one thing, do it! It's budget-friendly, convenient, and very easy to do. Just make sure you book your tickets in advance although the Platskart experience is also one of a kind π
Although it's not much, if you're looking for ideas on what to do in Armenia, never miss this tour: Day Tour to Khor Virap, Areni Cave, Noravank Monastery, and Areni Winery with Yerani Travel
So what are you waiting for?
