Two years ago, I finally got the courage to enter a banya after a long research on the internet for a long time. I initially planned to visit the famous yet old Zhirgal Banya but ended up in the Bath of Aphrodite by Baytur as recommended. This year, after my exhausting hike to Komsomolets Peak in Ala Archa National Park, I finally got the chance to try the famous Zhirgal Banya in Bishkek.
Zhirgal Banya in Bishkek
Now called Lechebno-Ozdorovitel'nyy Kompleks Zhyrgal, this traditional Russian public bathhouse can't be missed because of its peculiar design. With its two white-marbled domes, the bathhouse is located on the Eastern side of the city.
Located between Toktogul Street and Sultan Ibraimov Street, Zhirgal Banya is also close to Dordoi Plaza and GUM Chynar in Bishkek.
Costs
As of my visit (July 2024), the cost to enter the banya is below:
For non-Russian readers, the costs are:
- Adult - 1000 som
- Children from 3 to 5 years old - 700 som
- Shower - 700 som
- Retirement Day (Tuesday) - 700 som
- Female VIP - 1000 som
The price includes:
- Large Common Steam Room
- Large Pool
Banya Experience
I entered the dimly lit lobby of the banya and was welcomed by the ancient Greek mural.
A lady assisted me at the reception and I was satisfied with how I could get by with my limited Russian vocabulary. I was able to ask for a towel and slippers in Russian without having to check my translator.
But as soon as I went inside the locker area, my short act was caught by the older ladies. They spoke to me without a pause and they discovered right away that I was a foreigner. Of course, I was a little frustrated (with my Russian capabilities) but then I was met with the helpfulness and hospitality of the Kyrgyz ladies despite the language barrier.
Like a lost child, I made my way inside and found the wooden lockers. There were a lot of small rooms left and right next to the locker areas. However, they were mostly closed and empty. I can only assume that the rooms were for cosmetology services.
Past the locker area is the shower area. At the far end of the shower area is the banya or the common steam room. It's smaller than I expected and it was very dark inside. But the temperature inside wasn't a joke. I couldn't last long no matter how many tries I'd done.
Because of it, I got the courage to plunge into the cold pool. At first, I was only dipping my feet and that's it. However, after a few more 'sessions' inside the sweltering banya, I finally took the jump. Few seconds were enough and I had to hurry my way up.
Apart from the common steam room (which is only one room) and the cold pool, I didn't see any other facility anymore. I wasn't 100% sure about the cosmetology services either just by seeing the small rooms next to the locker area.
Overall Experience in Zhirgal Banya:
Unlike my first banya experience two years ago where I had zero expectations about banyas, it wasn't the case anymore. I wasn't expecting a state-of-the-art complex at all as I know for a fact that the banya has been serving the locals for many years already.
However, the amount paid to enter the banya was worth spending elsewhere. Having only two facilities - one steam room and a pool, paying 1000 som to enter is a little expensive. While I enjoyed the solitude inside the Zhirgal Banya, one could enter newer and modern banyas with a little price difference (Garden Spa for example is only 1200 som).
Only after I experienced it myself I then understood why my friends were recommending other banyas. It's not only because the banya was old but rather the lack of facilities. As much as I want to take a second look (to check whether there are other facilities), I don't see myself visiting Zhirgal Banya the next time I visit Bishkek. But hey, it's worth a try. At least, I got to see it for myself. ๐
