As part of our Backpacking trip to the Caucasus Region back in 2019, we spent 2 short days in Baku and quickly moved to the neighboring country of Georgia! Instead of taking an international flight, we did what the locals do, by train! So, we took an overnight train from Baku to Tbilisi by Azerbaijan Railways! Affordable, on-time, comfortable, and what an authentic experience it was!
DISCLAIMER & UPDATE AS OF JUNE 2024: The land border between Azerbaijan and Georgia has been closed, and the overnight train service between Baku and Tbilisi has been suspended until 2024, with no specified reopening date available at this time.
Buying Train Tickets for the Overnight Train from Baku to Tbilisi
As advised by Emily of Wander-Lush through her blog post, we booked our train tickets directly on the website. Based on our experience back in 2019, we were able to secure our tickets for the Baku to Tbilisi route easily. However, since the train between the two has been suspended, I do not see any Georgian destinations in the selection of destinations (checked in 2024).
Where to buy train tickets? -> AZERBAIJAN RAILWAYS WEBSITE
It wasn't difficult to buy the tickets through the website back then. The confirmation was sent to our email right away (not the official ticket). As instructed, we had to claim our official tickets directly from Baku Central Railway Station. We collected our tickets ONE DAY BEFORE DEPARTURE, just to be sure. We just showed our email confirmation to the counters and they printed out our official train tickets.
I couldn't read what was written on the ticket back then, but I assumed that they were my travel details, which you should check too. Double-check the name, the passport number (the erased part), the travel date (where it says 2019), the travel time (where it says 20:40), and your seat type (33.81 indicates 33.81 AZN which is the fare for Second Class Cabin).
Train Station in Baku: Azerbaijan Baku Train Station
Location, Facilities & Train Platforms
If you're taking the metro, your stop is 28 May Station. Once you exit the station, there's a modern building on your left, featuring store signs like LC Waikiki and Pizza Hut.
This building is a part of the train station, where you can claim tickets (though I booking in advance is advisable, especially in summer), purchase food, exchange currency if necessary, and even store luggage for a fee, particularly if you're heading back to Baku.
Behind this modern structure are the train platforms. Navigating to them is straightforward; simply proceed straight ahead, perhaps descending a few steps, but nothing more complex. It's worth noting that there was limited seating at the platforms, as was the case in 2019, so if you need to wait for your train, it's best to do so inside the building.
The Overnight Train from Baku to Tbilisi Experience
Although not modern-looking from the outside, the train (Train 38) was a decent, neat, and comfortable way of crossing the border.
Initially, we wanted to book the First-Class Cabins (a compartment of 2 beds) but we were too late and there were no seats available. We managed to book Second-Class Cabins which was a compartment of 4 beds: 2 lower decks and 2 upper decks.
As first-timers, we wanted to board early to get familiarized with the train and we forgot to buy water as a result. There's NO Wi-Fi and food shop/cart on board. We had soda with us but having no water was challenging for a 12-hour train ride. So help yourself and do the following:
- Buy your food and drinks before boarding the train
- Bring some board/card games
- Keep some movies/songs on your mobile phone/tablet/laptop
- Sleep
- And last but not least, interact with your roommates!
Let's take a look at our Second-Class Cabin below!
Our Roommates - an Azeri Mother and Son
I have mentioned that we originally wanted to book first-class cabins for privacy. Eventually, booking the Second-Class cabins became a blessing in disguise!
We shared the cabin with locals (Azeri) - a woman and her teenage son named Adil who speaks English fluently. Adil was so kind to translate all the announcements for us and I can't imagine being in the first-class cabins and can't figure out what's going on from the announcements!
The Border Crossing - Exiting Azerbaijan and Entering Georgia:
Azerbaijan Border
I thought we would reach the border between 3 AM and 4 AM (where did I get that information anyway?), so I kept on waking up to check if we already reached or not.
Adil came to the rescue! He saw me waking up from time to time so he informed me that we would only reach the border of Azerbaijan at 5 AM. Only then do I get the chance to sleep properly, at least for a few hours.
At 5 AM, we reached the border of Azerbaijan and we were asked for our passports and entry visas to Georgia by the officers who came up to our cabin. Fortunately, we are not required since we are residents of the United Arab Emirates. Immigration officers took our passports one by one and went out.
Then we were asked to go to another cabin where my friend and I were called separately. When I was called, the immigration officer took my photo (oh imagine how I looked at 5 AM!). Once our identity was verified, they gave us the exit stamps and our passports back.
Georgian Border
The train continued moving and it was announced that we were finally entering Georgia. After 15-20 minutes, we reached the border and the immigration officers came on board and asked for our passports again. The immigration officer asked us for a visa even if we told them that we were not required. Then I realized that our statement was incomplete.
So we showed him our U.A.E. Residence Visa and only then he understood what we meant. In their language, the magic word is 'Emirati resident'. So just in case, you encounter them, just say the magic word. ๐
After he took our passports, the immigration officer came back to 'slightly' interrogate us. He asked us where are we going and our proof of travel documents as well as travel insurance. Luckily, we prepared all of these and we handed everything we had to him. Right after the short interrogation, we're done! We successfully crossed the border and our overnight train from Baku to Tbilisi with Azerbaijan Railways will soon come to a stop. Few more hours left and we'll reach Tbilisi Railway Station in no time!
